What to Expect When Hiking to Kel Suu Lake in Kyrgyzstan

Written By Becca Rooney

Kel Suu Lake had been on my radar for a while. All the photos I’d seen made it look like one of the most remote and untouched places in Central Asia, isolated, hard to access, and totally off the beaten path. But after finally making the trip there myself, I realized a lot of the information online is either outdated or just plain misleading.

So here’s my honest take on what it’s actually like to hike to Kel Suu, how to get there, what surprised me, and what I wish I’d known beforehand.

Starting in Naryn

Our trip to Kel Suu began in the town of Naryn, which is often the base for travelers heading to the lake. It’s a quiet little place tucked between the mountains, with a mix of Soviet architecture and Kyrgyz hospitality. We stayed at Guest House Tenir too, and I genuinely can’t recommend it enough. The family who runs it was so kind, welcoming, and helpful, it really set the tone for our trip. After a long journey from Bishkek, it felt like a cozy and comfortable spot to recharge.

Naryn doesn’t have a ton going on, but it’s a great place to rest up and organize your trip before heading deeper into the mountains.

Important: You Need a Permit

This is one of those crucial but often-overlooked details: you need a special border permit to visit Kel Suu. The lake is located close to the Chinese border, and foreigners are not allowed to enter the area without this document.

I got mine taken care of in Bishkek before heading south. The process can take a few days, so I highly recommend arranging it as soon as you arrive in the country. I stayed at Apple Hostel, and they helped organize the permit for me - super convenient. All I had to do was give them my passport info, and they handled the rest.

Without the permit, you risk being turned away at checkpoints or fined. So definitely don’t skip this step!

Getting to Kel Suu

There are a few different ways to reach Kel Suu, and each comes with pros and cons:

  • Hire a private driver: Convenient, but usually more expensive

  • Join a group tour: Easier if you want to avoid planning, but less flexible

  • Rent your own car: Gives you the most freedom, but you’ll need to navigate unfamiliar roads

Our group decided to rent a car with a driver, thinking the road would be too rough to manage ourselves. Honestly, I wouldn’t recommend the driver we used, he wasn’t particularly friendly or helpful, but I did collect some contacts along the way that might be more reliable:

  • Kubat: +996 772 689 262

  • CBT Naryn: +996 559 567 685 (They weren’t super responsive via WhatsApp, but might be more helpful in person.)

Now here’s the part that really surprised me: the road to Kel Suu was totally fine. Everything I read beforehand made it sound like a rugged, borderline dangerous drive where only serious off-roaders survive. In reality, it was nothing crazy at all. Our group actually laughed about how overly cautious we’d been, we easily could’ve rented a regular car and driven ourselves.

Firsts Impressions

After several hours on the road, we finally arrived in the Kel Suu area. The landscapes were jaw-dropping, rolling green valleys, jagged mountains, and big open skies. It looked every bit as dramatic as the photos... but also, way more developed than we expected.

We pulled into an area filled with dozens of yurts, more than I’d seen anywhere else in Kyrgyzstan. There were other tourists, vehicles, and guides milling around. I’d been picturing an isolated alpine valley where we might be the only visitors, but it felt more like a summer yurt village with a solid tourist flow.

We stayed at Kezgin Guesthouse, which was a good base. The food was hearty, the yurts were warm, and the hosts were lovely. Just don’t expect a totally off-grid experience.

The Hike to Kel Suu Lake

The next morning, we set off on foot toward the lake. The hike was short and fairly easy, I’d estimate it took us around 1.5 to 2 hours each way at a relaxed pace. The trail is scenic and mostly flat, though you’re at high altitude, so take it slow if you’re not acclimated.

As we approached the lake, we were again surprised by the number of people already there. Cars had driven right up to the lake shore, and there were small crowds gathered near the water, snapping photos and waiting for boat rides. I couldn’t help but feel a bit disappointed, the image I had in my head was of us hiking in solitude to a pristine, empty lake.

One big surprise was the price of the boat ride. Every blog I’d read said it cost around $10 USD, but we were quoted $30–35 USD per person. That felt like a serious markup, especially for Kyrgyzstan. We decided to skip it and just enjoy the lake from the shore.

After hanging out by the lake for a while, we wandered off to a quieter corner and relaxed. A couple of friends took a quick swim (it’s freezing, but refreshing!), and we just soaked in the scenery. Despite the crowds, the lake is still undeniably beautiful, with steep canyon walls and icy blue water.

On the way back, something random and awesome happened, we got offered a ride in a huge truck heading back to camp. We hopped in, and it turned into one of those unexpected moments that ends up being the highlight of the day. I played a little banjo, we stuck our heads out the window, and laughed the whole way back. It was such a fun way to end the experience.

When’s the Best Time to Visit Kel Suu?

The window to visit Kel Suu is pretty short. Due to its altitude and location near the Chinese border, the area is only accessible during the summer months, usually from late June to early September. Outside of that, roads can be blocked by snow, and guesthouses are often closed.

Here’s a breakdown of what to expect by season:

  • Late June–July: Snow has mostly melted, rivers are full, and the landscape is lush. Still a chance of unpredictable weather.

  • August: Probably the best time to visit, stable weather, clear skies, and the lake is at its most photogenic.

  • Early September: Still possible to visit, but nights get cold and some camps may start closing up.

Avoid visiting outside this window unless you're on a specialized winter expedition, it’s not a casual hike in the off-season.

Final Thoughts

So… was it worth it?

Yes, but not for the reasons I originally thought.
If you’re expecting complete isolation and untouched wilderness, you’ll likely be let down. The area has become much more accessible, and it’s no longer the hidden gem it used to be.

That said, Kel Suu is still absolutely worth visiting if you go in with the right mindset. It’s beautiful, it’s dramatic, and the journey through the mountains is a big part of the adventure. Just don’t let the internet fool you into thinking you’ll be the only one there.

I hope this gives you a clearer idea of what to expect if you’re planning your own trip.

If you want to see some behind-the-scenes footage, check out @alexamcdonald in Instagram!

Planning to hike Ala Kul? Read more about my personal experiences here!

Here are some of my favorite travel resources:

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Becca Rooney
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Ultimate Kyrgyzstan Itinerary: A Epic 2-Week Adventure